Friday, July 10, 2009

GR11 - Day 14 - to Banos de Panticosa

I don't know what happened to my original post of Day 14. I know that it is in fact Day 13, but seeing as we gained a day at the beginning, I'm out of sync with the days in the Guidebook, so I decided to put myself in sync, so no Day 13.

Blue sky, cool because of snow. This is the day I was awaiting with fear and trepidation especially since some people who had walked it from the other direction told us that at the top in the pala (shovel) there was ice. I know for a fact that I go skating on ice with my boots. I had meant to pack some metalwork screws to screw on the bottom of my boots but forgot. I woke up at 1:00 am and had trouble falling asleep at at the thought of sliding in the shovel! We were going to leave early to have coolness for the climb, but those people convinced us to leave later to give the sun a chance to soften the snow and ice. We had to make a detour to bypass the spot where the route was flooded. We found the bridge we were to cross without difficulty, then - the trail had to cross a creek with too much water. We had to take our boots off and ford - brrr. After that we encountered our GR11 trail and kept on going up. The grade was easy so it wasn't hard. When we hit the snow, we were able to kick steps in it. We could see where other people had gone. The pala wasn't icy so I lost sleep for nothing. With the snow covering the marks, we missed the prescribed gully we were supposed to climb. The one we picked was totally vertical. I was a bit afraid because the rock was crumbly and you could only hope and pray that it would hold you. We had to climb about 10 m. Was I ever happy to hit the top where we could see our trail down below, so more scrambling. After that, the going was good. We still had huge snow fields to cross, but it was going down where you could dig your heels in. For a change, I was able to go fast downhill. We had quite a few other streams to cross, but we managed without having to take our boots off. Then came the long, long downhill. What a pretty sight, waterfalls all over, beautiful flowers all over. The route was quite stony so it gave me the chance to put my feet flat and give my knees some relief. We were surprised to see Manolo sitting on the path near Banos de Panticosa. He was supposed to have taken a day off at Sallient de Gallego. It turns out that there was no room free for him. Peter had scared him with his talk of snow and ice, so he bought new boots and walked to Panticosa on the road, actually arriving a day ahead of us! Thanks to him we got a bed in the refugio because it is full of people driving in from the city.

GR11 - Day 26 - to La Guingeta

Oh boy, it's nice to be caught up in my blog. I don't know when I will get a chance next, probably in Andora next week.

Today was nearly a day of rest. We were underway for only 3h10. The entire way was like a walk in the park. We are staying in the Camping Nou. Campgrounds here are more than a place to set up your tent. You can often rent rooms as we are doing today. We are in a camping trailer that can probably accomodate 8 persons. The campground has a bar/restaurant, a soccer field, a swimming pool, and of course a place for tents. It's good to be able to rest as tomorrow will be difficult with 1272 m up and 967 m down. If the sky is as blue and sunny as it was today, I have a sneaking suspicion that I will be fading out in the heat. The plan is to start as early as possible.

¡Hasta luego!

GR11 - Day 25 - to Espot

The day was really good in spite of climbing a waterfall when we followed stone cairns instead of our red/white marks, or the GPS, and even the instructions in our Guidebook which we are now considering next to useless, but which would have been helpful this time. This part of the country is really dotted with lakes one after the other. The path was really nice although rocky in spots. We arrived in Espot in 7h20 in spite of our screw-up. We thought it would be a long day and wasn't after all. It felt good to sit and soak in the tub in our Pension Palmira.

GR11 - Day 24 - to Refugi de Colomers

We are still in the clouds this morning. By the time we reached the first pass, we were above it and enjoying the such - finally! We reached the Refugi de Colomers after only 4h30. The sun is still shining and we finally did a full laundry. I hope it dries before the clouds roll in. Once again we keep geting fooled with non-existant marks at crucial crossings. Good thing Peter has good instincts. We did sleep on the floor, but on a nice thick mattress. Manolo surprised us. He had gone back to Madrid because of some family problem that he didn't want his wife to have to handle by herself. It's kind of nice to have our spanish walking companion back with us.

GR11 - Day 23 - to Refugi dera Restanca

We spent the entire day in the clouds. The way up was nice and easy with a gentle grade. We reached the Ruis pass and even managed to have a nice view of Lac Ruis before it closed in again. The path is similar to a creek. The way down was equally gentle. The only surprise was the very end where we had some serious steep climbing through the wet grass and bushes to finally reach the Refugi dera Restanca. My boots were totally soaked. Could wring out my socks! The weather is too humid to contemplate laundry. We've been in a cloud all day. The person manning the refugio suggested calling Colomers to reserve a bed for tomorrow. Unless people cancel, we will be sleeping on the floor! Peter and Marcus, the German guy, enjoyed sitting at the same table as a Dutch vegetarian family. They got to pig out on delicious pork tenderloin and mushrooms. We are really in the clouds now. You look out the window and see absolutely nothing.

GR11 - Day 22 - to Hospital de Viella

No rain, no storms overnight, nor in the morning. Hooray! The first couple hours were nice. The going was okay. By the time we reached the 2nd collado de Anglios, we were in the clouds. We had a good piece on snow which helps us make time. The going down to the Anglios Refugio was a bit difficult in snow and scree. We had lunch at the refugio and as were were ready to leave, it started pouring. We turned around and decided to wait it out in the hut. The last part of the day was unending in the rocks and beech leaves. The sight of the road and cars was uplifting. We decided to walk on the road to the Refugi Sant Nicolau (or Hospital de Viella). We didn't want any more slippery trails in the trees. You have no idea how slippery beech leaves become when wet. We finally arrived after 9 hrs. We were greeted by an extremely friendly bunch of Catalans.

GR11 - Day 21 - to Ibon Inferior de Ballibierna

The sky was really not nice as we left. The only up-side to that is that it is cool for walking. We made a pit stop at the camping Aneto to buy fresh bread. We were having to put on and take off our rain ponchos every five minutes. We keep on seeing irises and columbines all over. For a while it felt like we were walking in a creek bed. We arrived at the end of today's stage at Puen de Corones where there was a filthy unmanned refugio. It was raining and I didn't feel like going any further. Peter wanted to wait a few hours for it to pass and start walking some of tomorrow's stage which will be long and difficult. By 5:00 pm the sky was clearing so we made it to Ibon Inferior de Ballibierna where we are doing wild camping.

GR11 - Day 20 - to Refugio d'Estos

We had thunderstorms all night. I felt sorry for the two dutch girls, Greta and Janets, who had to sleep in their tent. Even if we didn't get up late, we were still the last ones out. The flowers on the route are so beautiful. These days, irises, carnations and yellow gentians. We were treated to two fords (one for Peter). Just as we passed over the collado, it started storming, thundering and lightening. It's kind of scary up in the heights, crossing snow-patched scree slopes. We had to haul out the rain gear a few times. We still arrived at the Refugio de Estos in decent time. Did laundry, but it's still gray and looking like rain. I don't know if anything will dry.

GR11 - Day 19 - to Refugio de Biados

Although we had to climb 1445 m, it didn't feel steep because we were doing it over a large distance. The scenery we are getting these days is more along my pre-conceived idea of the Pyrenees, mountainous ridges with a lot of green valleys and pastures. We were treated to mountainsides full of nice dark pink rhododendrums in full bloom. We had a few head-scratching moments, but with the help of the GPS, we managed to find our way without getting lost. It was nice to reach the Refugio de Biados after 7h05. It was nice for a change to arrive early and have a bed.

GR11 - Day 18 - to Parzan

Yesterday was a day of rest. We were so soaked, especially that Peter tripped and fell while crossing the river. We had so much dirty laundry and I was so tired. The only effort expended was one small walk. We came back just in time to take the clothes in as it started pouring again. It's easier to take when shelter is nearby! I think Peter would have wanted to continue, but he recognized that after 16 days of walking and over 325 km without a pause, that it might be a good idea to give my knee a rest. The water pipe broke and the entire valley was without water until 6:00 pm.

We finally dried out. We were able to Sno-Seal our boots before leaving. We got off to a good start by the Ermita de la Pineta. The route up was steep but managable. when we got out of the trees, we got beautiful views. It is amazing to see the wall we came down the day before yesterday. From across the valley, you would not think it possible. For a while I thought it would rain, a few drops, enough to make us take out our rain gear, but it only lasted 5 min. The views up there are magnificent. The top meadow, Plana Funda is walled in by hoodoo-type crags. The way down was relatively easy, a good part of it on gravel roads. We reached Parzan in just under 7 hrs. Easily got a room and enjoyed a well-stocked supermercado. Incredible for such a small pueblo.

GR11 - Day 17 - to Refugio de Pineta

We knew that today would be a long hard day, so we were off by 7:30. The way up to the first pass was easy then we had to go down near cliffs to eventually get to the valley bottom Some spots in the trees and tall grasses below were not too interesting. The climb up to the Collato Anisclo was kind of steep but also okay. We were afraid we'd have to climb in scree where you go 2 steps up and one step back. We reached the pass in 5 hrs, so we were really quite pleased. The view at the top was absolutely breathtaking. Looking back where we came from you could see the canyons and deep valley and on the other side where we were going was one giant closed-in cirque. The way down looked extremely steep. We had lunch and set off, oftentimes walking along the edges of cliffs, zigzag, back and forth. Then the rain stared in earnest. That's really all we needed for a 1150 m downhill trek in less than 3 km. Down and down we went. We could see the parador hotel become larger and larger so that was heart-warming until we had to make a giant semi-circle into the next valley. That was just awful. In pissing rain, with ponchos and heavy backpacks distorting our sense of balance, we had to go down one small cliff after the other. Bare rock would have been bad in the rain but this was covered in rotting leaves. It took us a whole 5 hrs to get down to reach an unbridged river which we had to cross before reaching the Refugio de Pineta. We had been underway nearly 10 hr. It's amazing how the body adapts. There was only one bed available. We decided to take it anyways and Peter was to camp. He could shower and eat here, but not sleep. Finally he relented and said that he could sleep on the floor, and and hour later, said that there was another free bed. Halleluliah!

GR11 - Day 16 - to Refugio de Goriz

We started off on the GR11 trail by the river, but after climbing one boulder after another and taking an hour to do 2 km, we headed for the road as far as the Ordesa Parking lot at about km 12. The route after that was wide and super-groomed. We made it to the Circado Soaso and the Cola de Caballo falls in good time. Then the climb started, from 1760m to 2160m up a cliff face. We had to endure 3 showers on the way up. The sight of the Refugio de Goriz was really quite welcomed. Now we had to wait 1.5 hrs to see if we have a bed. People with no reservations, but with an Alpine Club membership have priority. There were 5 available beds, so we had hope, and yes, we did get a bed.

GR11 - Day 15 - to Bujaruelo

Another maravellous day temperature-wise. We took the longest route with the easiest grade by the old hotel. The ascension was so gradual that it wasn't hard at all. Because Banos de Panticosa is a spa area with a lot of tourists, the routes are very well groomed. There was only one small steep part near the pass. Then we were in the boulders and snow fields. The snow was soft so the going was easy. It only became hard going down. The trail was fairly well marked, except of course where it is crucial to have a mark! We had to ford twice (Peter once) and had to guess where to cross the Rio Ara. When we finally finished with the boulders and hit a road, we coasted into Bujaruelo after 9h45.

GR11 - Day 12 - to Refugio de Respomuso

We had a nice late breakfast before leaving. We will be losing Manolo as he is taking a day of rest. I thought it would be a hard day because we had to climb 925 m. It turned out to be a marvellous walk on a super lovely trail. The ascent was so gradual that we didn't feel like we were putting out. We crossed waterfall after waterfall. I lost count after a while. The flowers along the way were different and beautiful. The last part of the trail was very rocky, but it was possible to choose flat rocks, so the achilles tendons didn't get strained. I must say that the sight of the Refugio de Respomuso was really welcomed as we could see the storm clouds forming. We had no sooner arrived than it started to rain. I hope this weather horseshoe keeps up! It's nice to arrive early for a change. The refugio is really beautiful and well-kept. We enjoyed a nice beer and lunch. They allow us to eat our own food in the dining room. Seeing as we arrived early, Peter wanted to go for a walk. the clouds were kind of threatening and I didn't want to go. He went all by his lonesome to investigate how to leave tomorrow. He followed the trail and it led to the lake! I guess they have had a lot of water this year and the trail is submerged. Of course he didn't know that and tried to figure out how to get across. The GPS had a totally different route. He came back puzzled. The dueno of the refugio explained to him how we get out tomorrow. Boy, I'm glad that happened before we left, all loaded with our packs.

GR11 - Day 11 - to Sallient de Gallego

We started off thinking we would do the variant. We started off but soon lost the marks and as well, the path we were following was overgrown and unpleasant. After a half hour we decided to live up to the promise we made to stay with the GPS route, so off we went. The route was beautiful, wide, easy on the feet, an easy grade, spectacular scenery. Oh, how I was glad we had changed our mind. With such an easy going, we probably made up the lost time. We were headed for a huge cirque with high cliffy walls. It seemed hard to believe that we would find a pass somewhere in there to get over on the other side. We got to the end and went up and up the switchbacks which were not visible from below. Whoever made the path sure knew what he was doing. I didn't even feel pooped at the top. On the other side of the pass, we made a lunch stop at Ibons d'Anayet. It started sprinkling a bit. We had a hard time finding the path. There were too many red/white marks and some didn't seem to go in the right direction. With the help of the GPS, we finally found our trail. When we made it down to a ski station which we thought was Formigal, we were confused once again. It started hailing and we were fortunate enough to find shelter until it passed. Because we thought we had passed Formigal, we had trouble finding the route. Finally we followed the road and arrived at the real Formigal and the instructions finally made sense. As we reached a gas station, it started raining. We went inside to have a beer and look at the Guidebook more carefully. No sooner did we start on our beer than the hail started falling in earnest. Everything was white. Were we ever glad that we were inside. Then it poured buckets. When it finally relented, we were just putting our packs back on when Manolo rolled in. He experienced being pinched by the hail. We sat down again and when we finally went on our way, the rain had stopped. We walked on another half hour to Sallient de Gallego. We had been underway 11h30. The odd thing is that we weren't tired! We found a nice hotel, did the usual wash up and went out for supper. Sallient de Gallego is a very picturesque town, very alpine looking with most buildings out of stone with wooden balconies filled with red flowers.

GR11 - Day 10 - to Estacion Canfranc

We got up to another blue sky. It amazed me that the tent was so wet. It's just from condensation. The mountains were still hiding the sun at 8:00 so we packed up wet. We went tromping through the valley bottom, skipping over the meandering stream umpteen times. We didn't seem to be on a trail, the GPS either. After we started climbing, we finally found our red/white marks again. The going is kind of rocky, hard to find good footing. We missed our turn at Ibon de Estanes. We were going down to the lake instead of staying high and going around it. That meant scrambling back up over 60 m which I could have done without. The going was slow becose of the rocky trail. We had to make a giant loop around a valley to Candanchu because of the cliffs. When we got there, nothing was open. It's a ski centre which totally closes in summer. We were hoping to eat there. We made our way to the Estacion Canfranc. The first Casa Rural (bed and breakfast) didn't answer, the second claimed to be full. We finally found an open bar and each savoured a large beer. I waited there with the packs as Peter went hunting for a place to sleep. He funally found rooms at a 3* hotel. It felt so good to lie in a tub filled with hot water.

GR11 - Day 9 - to Aguas Tuertas

Another marvellous day. We can only thank God for this clement weather. The views of the high peaks illuminated by the morning sun are stunning. On the other side of the pass, everything looked covered in green velvet. You constantly hear the cowbells. These beautiful valleys are simply one giant pasture. Needless to say, there is cow shit all over and the flies are a real nuisance. There are so many of them that I wonder how it is that there are enough left over to go crawl on the starving children of Africa! The day's destination was La Mina, but it had nothing to offer except a stunning view, so we kept on to Aguas Tuertas. There was a refugio there, a primitive hut with a cement floor, two cement benches on either side of the fireplace. We elected to set up our tent with the cows. We managed to find a clean spot (we hope) and hoped that the cows would stay away. They did. Phew!

GR11 - Day 8 - to Zuriza

A beautiful day. It was supposed to be a day of rest with us taking the easy variant of the route to Zuriza, about 12 km - 3 hrs. We followed the plastic banderolas saying Gobierno de Navarra. There were really no other GR11 indicators so we thought that was it. We had no problem getting to the waterfall nor to the student camping where we should have followed the river. The banderolas went up the hill on the other side of the road, so we thought that it was the same as the last 3 days where the route was changed somewhat. What a mistake! We went up and down collado after collado, seemingly getting further from our destination. Instead of having a short 3-hr day, we had a 6-hr day with little water at the end because we didn't know it would be so long. That being said, the route was really nice with nice views of the high peaks which we would not have seen otherewise. As we were arriving, we saw Manolo also arriving. He also got lost. Our first destination was the bar for a huge beer. Oh, how that was good. Then food on top of that and were were back in a good humour.

GR11 - Day 7 - to Isaba

A marvelous sunny day. The way was easy and well-marked. We caught up to Manolo and walked together a while until we found a nice relatively clean open spot, free of cow pies, where we could dry the tent and ground sheet before the mold sets in. We had to anchor everything otherwise the wind would have taken it away. We found a bush behind a tree which provided us with enough protection to be able to enjoy a nice lunch basking in the sun. The scenery is beautiful, treed hills and green pastures. We can already see the higher mountains where we will have to start sweating. We arrived in Isaba in good time (6h30). It was about 2:30 and high time to find a restaurant for menu del dia. If you can believe it, the first 3 restaurants were closed, the 4th in a 3-star hotel claimed it didn't even have a slice of bread! We have found out since that the Spaniards often look down their noses at grubby people with backpacks. We finally went to the last possibility and found Manolo already eating, sharing his table with Alfredo, a local. We had a very interesting conversation. Manolo is very talkative, a philosoper with an incredible sense of humour. We spent the rest of the afternoon yapping away.